Which 3D printer should you choose to get started? A guide

Hundreds of models, dozens of specifications and the internet full of conflicting opinions – choosing your first 3D printer can easily turn into weeks of research. But it doesn’t have to be that way. We’ll advise you on what you really need to focus on to ensure your first purchase doesn’t end in frustration.

FDM or resin printing – which should you choose for your first 3D printer?

FDM printing involves extruding and layering molten filament – it’s a simpler, cheaper and safer option to get started with. Resin printing (SLA/DLP) offers much greater detail, but involves working with liquid resin: gloves, room ventilation, rinsing the print in isopropyl alcohol and curing it under UV light. For someone who isn’t yet sure whether 3D printing he’ll like it, FDM is usually a gentler introduction to the subject. It’s worth coming back to resin later if you’re interested in small, highly detailed models, such as figurines.

Open or closed design – what difference does it make?

Open-frame printer It is usually cheaper and more easily accessible from all sides during servicing, but the printout is more vulnerable to draughts and fluctuations in room temperature. Enclosed design It maintains a more stable temperature inside, which is important for materials that require a warmer environment; it also dampens operating noise and restricts access by children or pets to hot components.

When it comes to your first printer, none of the options is wrong – it’s more a question of, where the equipment will be kept and who else has access to it at home.

Is automatic table levelling necessary to begin with?

Manually levelling the table can be one of the first sources of frustration – an uneven table can lead to a failed print, and it is difficult to identify the cause of the problem without experience. Automatic levelling It uses a sensor to measure the table and automatically corrects any discrepancies, so from the very first time you switch it on, you can focus on the printing itself, rather than trying to work out what’s gone wrong. To begin with, this is one of the few features where it really isn’t worth skimping.

What print area is sufficient for my first projects?

Most of the early projects – small organisers, handles, figurines, spare parts – can be accommodated within a small workspace. A larger print area sounds appealing, but it increases the price, weight and space requirements at home, and you usually only get the full benefit of it over time, once you know exactly what you want to use the printer for. It makes more sense to start with a more modest print area and buy a larger machine later if you really run out of space.

Direct drive or Bowden – does it matter to a beginner?

In the layout direct drive The filament feed motor is located directly on the print head, which ensures greater precision in material feeding – a benefit that is particularly noticeable with flexible filaments such as TPU. In the system Bowden The motor is positioned away from the print head, which makes the print head lighter and sometimes allows it to move faster, but the feeding of flexible materials can be less stable.

If you plan to print mainly with standard filament, the difference isn’t critical. It only becomes important when you want to use more flexible materials.

What else should you look out for apart from the specifications themselves?

The specifications don’t tell the whole story. Have a look at:

• operating noise level – printing can take several hours, and some models are noticeably noisier than others;
• availability of spare parts – nozzles, belts and fasteners are subject to wear and tear, and the ease with which they can be sourced affects the cost and convenience of use in the long term;
• the size of the community centred on a particular structure – Popular models have more guides, forums and ready-made solutions to common problems, which really does make it easier to get started.

The price of a 3D printer for beginners – What are the reasons for these differences?

Prices for 3D printers vary widely. Why is that? The cheapest models often require manual levelling and more work on the user’s part during the initial set-up. Mid-range models, with automatic levelling and better build quality, usually save you time and hassle right from the start.  The top end of the price range is occupied by enclosed designs and printers with larger build volumes.

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Where can I buy a 3D printer?

You don’t need to compare all the available models yourself in terms of design, levelling and print area. Von Halsky, the shopping assistant in the InPost Mobile app, will search through the offers and suggest options tailored to your needs. Simply describe what you want to use the printer for – for example, ‘the first FDM 3D printer with automatic bed levelling, for small projects’ – and By Halsky will help you find and compare suitable offers.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about choosing your first 3D printer

Is the cheapest 3D printer enough to get started?

It may be sufficient for learning the basics, but it usually requires manual levelling of the build plate and more hands-on work when making your first prints. If your budget allows, automatic levelling makes it much easier to get to grips with the subject.

Does a 3D printer have to be kept in a separate room?

It isn’t essential, but it’s worth bearing in mind operating noise level and – in the case of open-frame models – the risk of children or pets coming into contact with hot components whilst the printer is in operation.

Is a resin printer more difficult for a beginner to use than an FDM printer?

Usually, yes. It requires additional steps – rinsing the print and curing it under UV light – as well as care when working with liquid resin. FDM is a simpler way to get started.

Is a large print area important when making your first purchase?

Not necessarily. Most of the early projects It fits into a small workspace, whilst a larger print area primarily increases the price and space requirements.